Victoria Moore Discusses the Misconceptions Around German Wine & Her Personal Favourites
Telegraph wine columnist and author of the award-winning Wine Dine Dictionary, Victoria Moore, explores long-held misconceptions about German wines - and shares her personal favourites - in her latest article, “How German wines shook off their 1970s stigma - and the best ones to try.”
In the piece, Victoria delves into the paradox of German wines - particularly Riesling - which are highly prized within the wine trade but remain relatively niche among the wider public. Despite repeated predictions of a "Riesling renaissance," these wines have yet to achieve the mainstream popularity they deserve.
She acknowledges the lingering stigma from the 1970s and '80s, when mass-produced, overly sweet German wines (like liebfraumilch) dominated exports and damaged the country's reputation. But things have changed.
Thanks to advances in winemaking and a cultural shift towards drier, more expressive styles - such as pure Rieslings and elegant Spätburgunder (Pinot Noirs) - German wines are better than ever. Victoria argues it's time to leave outdated perceptions behind.
“German Riesling,” she writes, “fits perfectly with today’s drinking trends: lower alcohol (tick), lighter, unoaked styles (tick), crisp aperitif-ready acidity (tick), and a touch of sweetness- often cleverly balanced, even if drinkers don’t realise it (another tick).”
Among Victoria’s top picks are two standout bottles from The WineBarn portfolio - personal favourites of both hers and ours.
Bercher
2022 Weissburgunder Jechtinger dry
Region: Baden
£18.25 per bottle
Alcohol: 12.5%
"Weissburgunder = pinot blanc in Germany.
Elegant and dry, this might be German but in profile and sensibility it has a kinship with unoaked Burgundian whites. It’s not flashy or a people-pleaser, more like a modest friend.
Drink it with white asparagus or buttery fried fish."
Click here to learn more.
Bassermann-Jordan
2024 Deidesheim Riesling dry
Region: Pfalz
£23.70 per bottle
Alcohol: 12%
"The Mosel steals all the attention when it comes to German riesling, but you’d be well-advised never to pass up on a chance to drink one of Bassermann-Jordan’s wines from the Pfalz. Nimble and mineral, taut but not mean, this riesling gives the sensation of light shimmering on a pool of water.
The ideal apero white."
Click here to learn more.
To view Victoria's article in full, click here.
